Solomon’s Vintage Go Equipment Care Instructions
Here’s a guide to care for your Vintage Go Equipment, based on my experience.
I’ll cover Clamshell, Slate, and then Wood. If I learn anything new I’ll be sure to post updates here.
Especially in an era of Covid, cleanliness is essential for our well-being. So it’s worth repeating: Wash your hands before you play Go, and again after!
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Clamshell stones are a delight. Unlike glass, they have a soft feel and each has a different pattern. When in doubt, treat them like your teeth: keep them away from water that is too hot or too cold, rub them only with something soft like a plastic brush, and keep them clean!
What NOT to do with your Clamshell:
- Don’t use a chlorine bleach, at all, ever. You’ll permanently dull the surface.
- Don’t fidget with stones while playing - it puts oil on them and is a bad habit.
- Don’t wash white clams with black slate. Slate is hard, it scratches them.
- Don’t wash stones in a metal or glass tub, you risk chipping the stones.
- Don’t wash with hot water, it will make the clamshell brittle.
- Don’t allow h2o2 to dry on the stones. Account for some evaporation during soaking to make sure the clamshell remains completely submerged.
- Don’t take food-grade h2o2 lightly. It’s dangerous stuff to have around. In fact, maybe we should take a minute to talk about Hydrogen Peroxide…
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) can be dangerous. It should be treated like poison.
The chemical formula of a water molecule is h2o. You can see that h2o2 is just the addition of one additional oxygen atom to a water molecule. This makes for a very unstable molecule that wants to be water but can't be. H2o2 wants nothing more than to get rid of the extra oxygen atom, and so it goes around looking for something to bond with the oxygen. This is why it is used medically as a cleaner, because it will basically bond with anything carbon-based (organic life).
In the long term, a bottle of h2o2 left alone will eventually denature, and those single oxygen atoms will find each other and combine to become o2. So an old bottle will basically turn into water and oxygen; you might say it has 'gone bad' but it's really just become safe (though useless).
Some higher concentrations of h2o2 (or 'food-grade') even come in bottles with vents, so that they don’t explode from the increasing pressure as the contents denature. ALERT - food-grade h2o2 may work faster, but can actually be very dangerous. H2o2 will cast off that spare atom at any chance it gets, oxidizing anything it touches - including human cells such as lung tissue, if inhaled. It is very harmful if swallowed (possibly fatal, if there is significant damage to the digestive system or oxygen bubbles in the bloodstream). High concentrations can even explode if they come into contact with other substances like Alcohol. Wear safety gloves and eye protection at a minimum, and don’t bring such h2o2 into your home if there is a risk that someone might inhale or ingest it.
What to do when cleaning Clamshell:
- Make sure you actually have clamshell stones and not yunzi or plastic or glass. These instructions are only for clamshell.
- Find a plastic or wooden tub to wash them in. Add some water and a bit of detergent (a few drops of dish soap is fine). Gently add the white stones. My favorite container is a pink tray for keeping tacos warm.
- If the stones are very dirty, let them soak for a little while and try using a toothbrush or some other plastic brush to remove the grime.
- Rinse the stones. If you have hard water, consider rinsing with Distilled Water to avoid spots.
Transfer the stones to a plastic or wooden colander to drain, then allow them to dry on a clean towel, in a sunny spot if one is handy.
You can stop here. Seriously. This is enough for an average cleaning.
What to do when soaking Clamshell in Hydrogen Peroxide (h2o2):
Ok, so you just bought a used set and want to restore the clamshell’s whiteness. Well, first you need to get some h2o2, which comes in different concentrations. Household h2o2 is perfect, which is usually sold at 3% concentration.
- Find a container that will be the bathtub for your clamshells. A plastic tub is best. One option is to transfer the h2o2 to another vessel and then prepare the empty h2o2 bottle itself - by simply cutting off the top!
- Fully submerge the clamshells in the h2o2. Add a bit of extra h2o2 to account for evaporation so that the stones won't be exposed to the air later.
- Soak in h2o2 for 48+ hours, agitating the stones every 12 hours or so - maybe you swirl them, maybe you use a wooden spoon, whatever. You should start to see some progress by the 48-72 hour mark. I am lazy, so I agitate them once a day for a week.
Rinse thoroughly to remove the h2o2. Seriously, get all that h2o2 off - rinse it a lot! You might use Distilled Water as a final rinse if you have hard water, in order to avoid water spots (mineral deposits), then dry them fully. If you’re lazy like me, just drain them in a plastic colander and then spread them on a towel in the sun and go have a snack.
What to do when polishing your Clamshell:
- Why are you doing this? You don’t have to do this.
- Some players prefer a glossy finish. Fine. You’re doing this? Ok, get your dry white cotton cloth, and put some raw ibotarou powder on one corner. Can’t find any? Me neither! Carnauba wax paste with no additives is a fine alternative, and so are the shavings of plain colorless candles (according to the guys that make go stones for a living). Polish one at a time, wiping off the excess wax afterward with another dry white cloth, or massage a whole bunch of them in a cloth bag at once.
All done! Place a cloth at the bottom of your go bowl to protect it from excess wax, then transfer the polished stones into the bowl.
Slate feels great. It’s actual stone, so it is not slippery like glass or plastic. Matte black, or dusty dry, or polished glossy, all versions are good. There’s an earthy feel to slate pieces and when you place them on the board they should all look nearly identical (as long as you’re not sweating nervously).
What NOT to do with your Slate:
- Don’t wash Slate with the Clamshells. Slate is hard and can scratch stuff.
- Don’t wash Slate in a metal or glass container. Slate may be hard, but it can also be brittle and you don't want to risk chipping them. Some glass types are actually harder than slate.
- Don’t use a mineral oil with additives, essential oils, or other such nonsense. The stones will be coming into contact with different types of wood which may be sensitive; and different types of people, too, maybe some with allergies.
- Don’t fidget with the stones. It’s a bad habit and makes them oily. However, some people see this as the best way to oil the stones, slowly over time (especially with yunzi). So, to each their own?
What to do when cleaning Slate:
- Find a plastic or wooden tub to wash them in. Add some water and a bit of detergent (a few drops of dish soap is fine). Gently add the black stones.
- If the stones are quite dirty, let them soak for a little while and try using a toothbrush or some other plastic brush to remove the grime.
- Rinse the stones. If you have hard water, consider using Distilled Water to avoid spots.
- Transfer the stones to a plastic or wooden colander to drain, then allow them to dry there or spread them on a clean towel (in a sunny spot, if one is handy).
- If you like the look of the slate, then you’re all done! Polishing slate is a matter of personal preference and is not strictly necessary.
What to do when polishing your Slate:
- Get a clean, white, cotton cloth that you don’t care about staining. That old-shirt-that-you-were-going-to-throw-away-anyway is fine, if it isn't pilly.
- Add a few drops of mineral oil to the corner of the cloth.
Rub each stone until it is coated with mineral oil then set it aside.
An alternate method is to simply place all the slate in a plastic bag, add a few drops of mineral oil, and jumble them all around for a minute. Easy.
- Once all the stones are oiled, begin wiping off the excess oil from each stone with another clean white cloth. That takes some time, so maybe watch a Go streamer on Twitch while you keep your hands busy.
- Put a cloth napkin at the bottom of the bowl before you transfer in the polished slate. This will catch any excess oil you missed.
Wood is wonderful to interact with. Since it's an organic material, it requires some upkeep. Humidity is a huge consideration - too much leads to mold, and too little leads to desiccation. Wood shrinks as it dries, so dry wood has a higher tendency to develop cracks - this is why firewood is much easier to chop once it has dried. Be mindful not to store items where there is a draft that can dry them out. Also, always keep your board & bowls away from direct sun or heat to avoid warping.
Generally you should clean wood with a dry cloth. That may be all you need! Old wax may appear white on the board, and this is a good sign. Remove as much old wax as you can before applying a new coat. In the image above, a new layer of wax is being applied from the left and you can see the dusty white of old wax on the right.
If a deeper cleaning is needed, always test a small, inconspicuous area first, such as the inside of a bowl or the underside of the board. Tough stains might need a solvent, like a citrus oil, or something stronger like Barkeeper’s Friend (this is oxalic acid, and it requires its own safety precautions, like using a respirator/mask).
ALERT: the grid of many go boards is made with Urushi lacquer, which is in the Poison Ivy family. Use non-latex gloves and a respirator, especially if using a product that can thin Urushi lacquer, like Turpentine or Camphor oil or Kerosene.
Unfortunately, many bowls are varnished (or coated in carnauba wax) right on the lathe when they are made. This method shows off the natural grain and color of the wood, but does little to protect the wood in the long-term. In fact, a lacquer barrier will interfere with attempts to preserve the wood with oil. Some people prefer to see bowls age naturally, but bowls will get brittle over time and crack, either due to an accident or simply by drying out.
Treating wood is essential to taking care of it. For this you will need oil and wax. Oil penetrates the wood (provided that there isn't some coating in the way), and wax creates a surface barrier on the wood to keep away dust and debris and scratches. This will generally not produce as shiny a result as varnish or lacquer, but will certainly help the bowls last longer. The polymerization of linseed oil, for example, will lend strength to the wood that will help keep it intact.
If you need to do some wood-care, read to the end of my instructions before diving in. You may also want to visit a woodworking website or two - there are also dozens of YouTube tutorials you can watch to familiarize yourself with the basics.
When using oil to treat wood, be very mindful of the type of oil and the type of wood. Wood will absorb any oil it comes into contact with, and won’t let go of it. Oils that can go rancid (such as vegetable oil) should be avoided - in general, don't put something on the wood that will be food for mold.
Safety is a concern when handling wood-finishing products. Eyewear a good idea, and you should also avoid prolonged contact of certain oils on your skin. Wear gloves if you may have a sensitivity, or at the very least wash your hands with detergent afterward.
First, consider whether you want to darken the wood or not - Walnut oil is great and will not go rancid, but it will significantly darken the color (and of course some people have nut allergies). Tung oil will also change the color significantly, but needs less frequent applications. Raw Linseed Oil is light, and a very safe bet for most wood types, but it takes up to a week to cure. Boiled Linseed Oil cures faster by including chemical agents to speed up the process. Mineral oil is a petroleum product that is also used commonly on cutting boards and other kitchen surfaces, by itself or in some combination.
Our recommended oil is Special Linseed Oil, which is pure raw linseed oil that has been vacuum-heated to jumpstart the polymerization process. Compared to raw linseed oil, this product leaves less 'food' that would attract mold, and it cures in half the time. Please note that curing is still a long process - an item may feel dry after only a few hours but likely has not finished curing.
You can purchase wax paste, which is a combination oil and wax, so that you are taking care of both treatments at once. We now offer Monkey Wax, which adds a third ingredient of Turpentine to soften the wax and help the oil penetrate the wood. I've heard good things about Tried & True; I've also heard good things about Renaissance wax, which boasts finer particles. It bothers me that I can't verify the ingredients in these various products, which is why I made my own.
In general I’d recommend that you do a quick google search for oil and wax to use on ‘fine ____ furniture,’ filling in the blank with the type of wood you are treating. Certain products serve the same functions as oil, but may actually be shellac or lacquer or chemical substitutes. It's really up to you, based on what result you want.
Before applying any oil, make sure that you have removed any wax or other sealants - they will prevent the oil from penetrating and the oil will build up on them. There are a number of 'removers' or 'strippers' that you can use to dissolve old varnish, if it is present on your bowls. If you're unsure, you could simply sand the wood down - use something like 150-200 grit sandpaper to start, then 220-300 grit to finish. Feel free to go up to 400-600 if you want a super-smooth surface. Remember to wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling sawdust, especially since it is hard to know how the wood was treated in the past. Clean off the sawdust before applying a finish - vacuum it, or use compressed air, or wipe with a Tack Cloth, or just use a piece of old cotton fabric that won't pill.
To finish the wooden bowls in these photos, I used Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). BLO has chemical drying agents that help reduce the time it takes to cure. BLO is not our most recommended finish, but it is very common in woodworking. Simple instructions are as follows:
- Work somewhere well-ventilated and wear protective gear.
- Apply the oil with a paintbrush (preferred) or a cloth.
- Coat the bowls fully, then allow 15 minutes to let the oil penetrate.
- After 15 minutes, wipe off all the excess oil (before it gets sticky) and give the bowls 24 hours to cure before the next coat.
- Place a canopy over the bowls so that sawdust doesn't land on them.
- One coat of BLO is fine, but you can apply a 2nd coat, or even a 3rd. Each coating will make the wood slightly darker and slightly stronger.
- Avoid doing more than 3 coats of linseed, as the oil can get gummy or the finish may get splotchy.
If you are using raw linseed oil instead, note that it takes up to a week to dry between coats. The upside is that raw linseed is food-safe.
If you can get it, Polymerized (or 'Special') Linseed Oil is made the old-fashioned way without chemical drying agents. This is done by cooking the oil just below its flash point (a dangerous method) to begin the polymerization process. The result is a food-safe product that dries faster than raw linseed, though not as fast as BLO. I have shifted away from BLO to the Special Linseed Oil offered by EarthPaint. Everything I've read indicates that raw and pure linseed give a better feel to the wood ("buttery"), and the only downside seems to be the longer curing time.
ALERT: Oils are flammable! Take great care not to work with the oil (or store it) near a heat source or open flame. Linseed oil actually polymerizes as it dries, and this reaction itself is exothermic, releasing heat! Oil-soaked rags have been known to spontaneously ignite when wadded up in the trash, so they should be washed with detergent if kept - if being discarded, spread them flat to dry and weigh them down with a rock.
Oily brushes can be cleaned with turpentine or mineral spirits. Speaking of turpentine (pine spirits), you can actually mix some with your BLO - this will thin it down and give it more penetrating power into the wood. This is a good idea for a first coat if you plan of using straight BLO for the second coat.
A good coating of wax will help seal most wood. Many go boards will have white residue from previous treatments, and that is a good sign that the board has been cared for. Again, remember that oil won't penetrate finished wood (it will sit on top of it being sticky) so if your wood has a layer of lacquer or shellac then use pure wax.
Beeswax is an excellent choice. Carnauba wax without additives is also fine. Ibotarou wax has a high melting point, so very specific methods must be used to apply it (also, it is quite different from raw ibotarou powder which is used for polishing Clamshell). I've used Briwax (get the new kind without Toluene) that has both carnauba and beeswax. I've heard Minwax is also a great product.
Japan wax is also good, but is from Urushi (poison ivy family), so read the alert above regarding handling it safely.
Whatever you decide to use, apply the wax thinly and evenly. Steel wool (#0000 grit) is a great tool to use to apply the wax if the wood is finished, as it really helps work the wax in and make the grain pop, while avoiding leaving big globs of wax anywhere. A cloth is also fine, or an abrasive plastic pad, or synthetic steel wool.
Give that wax coating up to a half hour to settle in - it should be mostly dry to the touch - then buff the surface with a clean cotton cloth to polish it and remove the excess wax. Again, the result is the thinnest possible coating of wax - don't be surprised that the cloth picks up a lot.
If you are using a particularly hard wax, don't give it more than an hour to dry before buffing, because it will be tough to buff once it has fully set.
I've found that my skin really doesn't like all the VOCs in woodworking products, so that is why I made my own paste wax (oil and wax in one product) called Monkey Wax for use on unfinished wood. Do remember that any wax containing a polymerizing oil (like linseed), will need to cure before it is ready to use. Allow adequate time to cure (more time in cold and wet climates) before bringing it back into your home.
First, don't use steel wool on oak, as the tannins of oak will react leaving brown stains. Second, only use steel wool if you understand the difference between finished wood and unfinished wood. #0000 steel wool is the equivalent of 400-grit sandpaper, and it can be easy to create nearly-invisible swirls (scratches) that will make themselves apparent once the wax dries.
If you are working with a finished-wood product (covered in a layer of lacquer or shellac) then you can apply straight wax with #00 steel wool without having to worry about scratching the wood. Then buff with #0000 steel wool. The finish provides a layer of protection so the steel wool is not abrading the wood itself.
If you have an oil-finished wood or raw wood then use synthetic steel wool instead. A cloth or plastic abrasive is also fine.
Although I love #0000 steel wool, it can also be a problem on the end-grain of a board or other textured surfaces, which have a tendency to trap small particles. A cloth is fine, or a plastic brush like a toothbrush works well, especially when assisted with a hair dryer to keep the beeswax soft.
Well, that's all I have to say for now. Thanks for reading this far and I hope you learned something new!